Lasagna

A name older than tomatoes

The word lasagna — singular — refers to the noodle itself. The plural lasagne is the dish. Its roots go back to ancient Rome (laganon in Greek, laganum in Latin) — a flat sheet of dough cooked in fat. Tomatoes are a relatively recent addition; classic lasagne alla bolognese uses ragù bolognese (a slow-cooked meat-and-tomato sauce) and béchamel, not the heavy red sauce associated with Italian-American versions.

Two main schools

• Lasagne alla bolognese (north) — green spinach pasta sheets, ragù bolognese, béchamel, Parmigiano-Reggiano. Subtle and rich.
• Lasagna napoletana (south) — flat egg pasta, tomato sauce, ricotta, mozzarella, hard-boiled egg, sausage, sometimes meatballs. Showier and saucier.

The architecture

A proper lasagna alternates pasta with thin layers of sauce — never thick puddles. Eight to ten layers is typical. The dish rests for at least 15 minutes after baking; cutting too early collapses the layers into a puddle.