Lao

What it is

Lao cuisine is the food of the Mekong’s middle reach. Without a coastline, cooks turned to river fish, foraged greens, and the long, slow fermentation of padaek — a chunkier, funkier cousin of Thai nam pla. Sticky rice is the staple grain, eaten by rolling small balls between the fingers.

How it tastes

Lao food is funkier than Thai. Padaek and toasted rice powder give a deep, earthy backbone; mountains of herbs and lime cut through. Heat from bird’s eye chili tends to be raw and pounded fresh.

Signature dishes & techniques

Larb — minced meat tossed with shallots, mint, lime, and roasted rice powder — is widely considered Laos’ national dish. Green papaya salad (tam mak houng) is pounded in a tall clay mortar with crab paste and padaek. Charcoal-grilled sai oua sausages and clay-pot or lam stew round out the table.