Kedgeree

Indian origins

Kedgeree derives from khichri — a simple Indian dish of rice and lentils that was a staple for the poor and a sick-day comfort food. British colonial officials in India ate it regularly, then adapted it dramatically upon returning home: lentils were replaced with smoked haddock and hard-boiled eggs; butter and cream enriched it; Indian spices were retained in toned-down form. The result is something quite unlike the original but quintessentially British.

Victorian breakfast

Kedgeree became a fixture of the Victorian and Edwardian country-house breakfast table — part of the elaborate hot-dish spreads served from silver chafing dishes to houseguests. Kipling wrote about it; Victorian cookbooks describe it as a standard dish. It fell somewhat from fashion in the 20th century but has been rediscovered as a satisfying weekend brunch.

Smoked haddock

The quality of kedgeree depends heavily on the haddock. Traditionally undyed, naturally smoked haddock (Finnan haddie or Arbroath smokie) is preferred — the orange-dyed variety gives a harsh, artificial flavour. The haddock is gently poached in milk, then the skin and bones removed and the flesh broken into large flakes.

Spice balance

The curry powder in kedgeree should be present but subtle — enough to warm the dish and suggest its origins without overwhelming the delicate smoked fish. A little turmeric is often added for colour. The dish should taste primarily of good smoked fish, butter, and eggs, with spice as background.