Moussaka

Nikolaos Tselementes

The modern Greek moussaka is largely credited to chef Nikolaos Tselementes (1878–1958), who codified Greek cuisine in his influential cookbooks and introduced the thick béchamel topping that distinguishes Greek moussaka from its regional cousins. Before Tselementes, Greek moussaka was closer to the Arab version — layered but without the béchamel custard top.

The spiced meat layer

Ground lamb (or beef) is cooked with onion, garlic, tomato paste, canned tomatoes, and a spice mixture of cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves. The cinnamon is characteristic of Greek meat cookery — a sweet-warm note that would seem odd in Italian or French cooking but is fundamental in Greek and Ottoman-derived meat dishes.

The eggplant

Eggplant slices must be salted and pressed to extract moisture and bitterness, then fried or brushed with oil and roasted until golden. Undercooked eggplant produces a watery, bitter layer; properly caramelised eggplant is silky and rich.

Regional cousins

• Turkish musakka — without béchamel; uses zucchini and potato alongside eggplant
• Balkan musaka — often made with potatoes instead of eggplant
• Arab mussaqa’a — a cold or warm eggplant and chickpea dish without meat, closer to caponata