Ribollita

Reboiled

Ribollita literally means “reboiled” — the dish is made by taking yesterday’s minestrone or bean soup and adding stale bread, then cooking it again until the bread has completely absorbed into the soup, thickening it to an almost porridge-like consistency. This technique of using stale bread as a thickener is central to Tuscan cucina povera (poor kitchen) and appears in other Tuscan dishes including pappa al pomodoro (tomato bread soup).

The bread

Tuscan bread is traditionally made without salt — a characteristic that dates from medieval times (a reaction to a salt tax). This salt-free bread becomes stale very quickly, and ribollita was a practical way to use it up. Any good rustic bread works in the recipe, but the Tuscan unsalted loaf produces the most authentic result. The bread must be completely stale — fresh bread produces a gluey result.

Cavolo nero

Cavolo nero — black kale, Tuscan kale, or lacinato kale — is the essential green in ribollita. Its dark, almost savoury flavour and robust texture hold up to long cooking better than regular cabbage. The leaves become completely tender but do not fall apart. If cavolo nero is unavailable, Savoy cabbage or regular kale are acceptable substitutes, though the flavour changes slightly.

Improving with time

Ribollita is better on the second and third day than the first. The beans continue to meld with the bread and vegetables; the flavours deepen; the texture becomes even more substantial. Making a large pot on Sunday and eating it through the week is the authentic Tuscan approach.