Scones

The cream tea

A cream tea — scones, clotted cream, jam, and a pot of tea — is one of the most iconic British eating experiences, associated particularly with Devon and Cornwall. The scones should be warm from the oven or freshly reheated; the clotted cream should be thick enough to spread with a knife without running; the jam should be strawberry, properly set. Whether to apply cream or jam first is a regional identity marker: Devon puts cream first, then jam; Cornwall puts jam first, then cream.

Technique

Good scones require a light hand and minimal working of the dough. Cold butter is rubbed into flour to create a sandy texture, then liquid is added sparingly and the dough brought together quickly with minimal kneading. Overworking develops gluten and creates tough, heavy scones. The dough should be patted or rolled gently, not pressed. Scones rise better if cut straight down with a cutter rather than twisted — twisting seals the edges and inhibits rising.

Plain and fruit

Plain scones are the cream tea standard; fruit scones add dried currants, sultanas, or cherries to the basic mix. Cheese scones use grated cheddar mixed into the dough and are served plain or with butter. Wholemeal and oat scones exist in many regional variations. Drop scones (Scotch pancakes) are a related product — a batter dropped onto a griddle rather than a shaped dough baked in an oven.

Afternoon tea

Scones are central to the formal British afternoon tea — a tradition established in the 19th century and revived in hotels and tearooms. The classic afternoon tea sequence is sandwiches, then scones with cream and jam, then cakes — always in that order, from savoury to cream to sweet.