Tarragon

French vs. Russian

Two cultivars of the same species look identical but differ dramatically in flavor:

• French tarragon (A. dracunculus var. sativa) — the culinary tarragon. Strong anise/licorice notes. Sterile (propagated from cuttings only).
• Russian tarragon (A. dracunculus) — produces seeds, but flavor is weak, almost grass-like. Avoid for cooking.

If you grow tarragon and it makes seeds, you have Russian tarragon. The good kind doesn’t propagate that way.

A French herb

Tarragon’s culinary home is classical French cooking:

• Béarnaise sauce — the canonical sauce for steak, with tarragon and chervil.
• Tarragon chicken — sautéed chicken with cream and fresh tarragon.
• Fines herbes — equal parts tarragon, chervil, parsley, chives, used to finish omelets, fish, and salads.
• Tarragon vinegar — infused vinegar for vinaigrettes.
• Salade niçoise — sometimes seasoned with tarragon.

In Russia and Georgia, tarragon’s role is different — it flavors a green soft drink called tarkhuna that’s mildly soda-like.

When to add

Tarragon’s volatile aromatics are heat-sensitive — long simmering destroys them. Most recipes add tarragon at the end of cooking, or use it raw in dressings. Dried tarragon retains some flavor but lacks the floral high notes; for béarnaise and fines herbes, fresh is essential.