Syllabub

Tudor origins

Syllabub is one of the oldest continuously made British desserts. Early recipes from the 16th century describe a liquid drink of cream mixed with wine; by the 17th century it had evolved into a whipped, semi-solid cream. Syllabub was fashionable at Elizabethan and Jacobean banquets, appearing in recipe books from the 1650s onward. The “everlasting syllabub” — whipped cream stable enough to stand overnight — was one of the great showpieces of Stuart cookery.

The whipping

The essential technique is whipping double cream with wine, lemon, and sugar until the mixture thickens and forms soft, billowing peaks that hold their shape. The wine is added gradually during whipping, and the lemon zest is steeped in the wine beforehand to infuse its oils. The result is lighter than pure whipped cream, with a fruity, slightly acidic, alcoholic flavour that prevents the richness from becoming cloying.

Modern revival

Syllabub fell from fashion in the 19th century as more elaborate desserts took its place, but has been championed by food historians and chefs including Jane Grigson and Fergus Henderson as one of the finest simple British desserts. Its lightness makes it appropriate after substantial main courses; its preparation is quick; and it can be made hours ahead and refrigerated without deterioration. It has a particular elegance in wine glasses.

Serving

Traditional syllabub is served in glasses with a layer of the wine-lemon mixture at the bottom and the whipped cream floating on top — guests drank the liquid from beneath with a straw. Modern versions are fully mixed and chilled in glasses, served with delicate biscuits — ratafias, macaroons, or shortbread — for dipping into the cream.