Medlar

Bletting: controlled decay

A medlar harvested in November is hard, astringent, and unpleasant to eat. To become edible, it must undergo bletting — a process of partial decomposition in which the fruit’s starch converts to sugar and the firm, tannic flesh softens to an apple-butter consistency. Bletting occurs naturally after frost (leave the fruit on the tree past first frost) or artificially (store in a dry, cool place in single layers, calyx-end down, for 2–4 weeks). The bletted fruit is brown, soft, and collapses when pressed.

Medieval European popularity

Before the widespread availability of imported tropical and subtropical fruits (post-16th century), the medlar was one of the most important fruits of European medieval cooking. It was eaten at the end of meals, preserved as jelly and cheese, and fermented into wine. Shakespeare references it multiple times (usually as a sexual double entendre due to its shape). After the 17th century, medlar cultivation declined rapidly.

The flavour

Properly bletted medlar flesh has a complex, sweet, slightly winey, almost caramelised apple-butter flavour with spicy notes. The texture is soft and yielding, somewhere between a very ripe pear and a thick paste. The large seeds must be removed. It is eaten with a spoon or spread on bread.

Modern revival

The medlar has experienced modest revival among foragers, heritage gardeners, and chefs interested in historical ingredients. The trees are attractive, disease-resistant, and productive with minimal care. Medlar jelly — made from cooked and strained bletted fruit — is considered a fine accompaniment to game meats and strong cheeses.