Capers

Where it comes from

Capers are the immature unopened flower buds of Capparis spinosa, a sprawling spiny shrub that grows out of the cracks of Mediterranean walls and cliffs. The buds are picked by hand each morning before they open. Pantelleria (Italy), Salina, the Balearic Islands, and Turkey lead production. Without curing — typically in salt or vinegar brine — the buds are too bitter and mustard-sharp to eat.

Flavor & pairing

Capers taste briny, tangy, and lemony, with a soft mustardy bite and a faint floral lift. Salt-packed capers, rinsed before use, give a brighter and less astringent flavor than vinegar-brined. They cut through olive oil, fish, lemon, butter, and tomato.

How it’s used

Italian pasta puttanesca, Sicilian caponata, and chicken piccata depend on them. French tartar sauce and beurre noisette aux câpres with skate cannot be made without. Maltese cuisine uses caper salad. Greek octopus dishes and Spanish ensaladas add them too. New York bagels and lox always include capers.

Trade history

Pantelleria capers and Salina capers both hold PGI status in EU law, recognizing their distinct island terroirs.