Horseradish

Where it comes from

Horseradish is the long, branched taproot of Armoracia rusticana, a perennial in the brassica family native to eastern Europe and western Asia. Hungary, Poland, Germany, and the American Midwest are the leading producers. Whole roots are sold in the produce aisle, but most kitchens encounter it pre-grated in jars.

Flavor & pairing

Like mustard and wasabi, horseradish heat comes from allyl isothiocyanate, which is only released when the root cells are damaged. Whole horseradish smells faintly cabbagey; grated, it produces a sharp, ammonia-bright sting that hits the sinuses instead of the tongue. It pairs with beef, oily fish, beetroot, sour cream, and tomato.

How it’s used

American cocktail sauce blends grated horseradish with ketchup for shrimp. British and German cooks fold it into cream for roast beef. Polish kitchens pair it with hard-boiled eggs and sausage for Easter. Bloody Marys depend on it. At the Passover seder, it serves as one of the symbolic bitter herbs.

Trade history

The “horse” in the name is thought to refer to the root’s coarse size, large enough to feed a horse, rather than any equestrian use.